Cactus, Agave, Yucca and Ocotillo

Cactus
Cactus can give that authentic touch of native dignity that seems to legitimize and complement Arizona desert landscapes. They make excellent specimen plants or striking accents. The Cactus family numbers over 2000v species. Typically cactus are devoid of leaves and have swollen stems, spines or scales. All cacti are native to the New World and are found from North America to the southern tip of South America. The thick waxy coated stems of these perennial herbs are quite resistant to moisture evaporation, which gives them considerable drought tolerance. Desert cacti are leafless; however, most have spines. Photosynthesis (food production for the plant) occurs within the green outer cortex of the stems, and moisture reserves are stored in the internal part of the stems, sustaining these plants through prolonged dry periods of desert climates. Structural support for cactus plants is provided by internal fibrous or woody skeletal forms. Most cacti have tapering tap roots that anchor the plant and fleshy lateral roots close to the soil surface that extend outward for several feet in all directions. These absorb and store moisture and nutrients. The rose-like flowers of cacti, which are contrastingly delicate and beautifully colored, produce edible although sometimes not too palatable fruit. Transplanting is usually necessary since cacti seldom occur naturally in desired landscape locations. Although they can be transplanted year-round in southern Arizona’s lower elevations, quicker reestablishment can be expected from March through October. Warmer temperatures favor active root growth and, consequently, quicker establishment of the transplant. Transplant cacti in their original directional orientation. This is very important! The south and southwest sides of these plants become toughened and resistant to sunburn. The more tender north or east sides are likely to sunburn and scar and may rot if exposed to the intense hot sun. Before transplanting, mark the north side with chalk, ribbon, etc., and replant with that side again to the north. To aid in protecting against sunburning, the newly transplanted plants may be covered with a piece of shade cloth. The shade cloth should be left on until signs of new growth and establishment occur. To remove cactus from its original location, first cut the shallow roots by forcing a sharp shovel blade to its depth into the soil completely around the plant about a foot away from the base. Then, dig under and carefully pry and lift he plant out of the ground. Try to minimize injury to the plant. When digging ocotillo and saguaro cacti, care should be taken not
to damage the corky area between the roots and above ground parts of the plant. Allow any loose soil to fall away from the roots. Prune off any damaged roots with sharp, clean pruners. Then, prune back the remaining lateral root stubs, leaving them five to ten inches long. Dust these cuts and other wounds immediately with powdered sulphur to lessen chance of infection and hasten callousing (healing). Cactus transplants should then be placed in a shaded, open area for one to two weeks after digging to allow the fresh-cut roots to heal before transplanting. Replant cacti in dry soil and do not irrigate until new growth appears at the apex (tips) of the plant which may take several weeks. Large cacti such as saguaro are best transplanted by a reputable nursery or specialized cactus company. Since
the plants can weigh up to 100 pounds per linear foot, even a modest 6 foot saguaro can weigh too much for the homeowner to handle without special equipment. Smaller saguaros (up to 3 feet) can be successfully transplanted without special equipment. Request written planting and care instructions from the supplier and follow them carefully. Since the plants are slow to reestablish, the buyer should request a two-year guarantee from the nursery or supplier. Customers should ask for written instructions if possible. Purchase native cacti from reputable nurseries and follow their written instructions to reestablish properly. Well drained sandy or gravelly loam soils are best for most cacti. If heavier, tighter soils are used, spade in 1/3 to 1/2 by volume of washed sand plus some crushed granite, fine gravel, etc., and mix it well with the upper foot of original soil. Raised (slightly mounded) open locations should be provided for transplanted cacti. Avoid locations where water is likely to collect, and keep the soil overly wet. Also, avoid planting against a south or west wall. Intensified and reflected sunlight may burn the plants. Don’t crowd cactus plantings. Allow space for air to circulate freely around them. Smaller cactus varieties that normally grow under native shrubs should be provided appropriate shading. Never nail anything to a cactus as this may lead to scarring, disfigurement or a point of entry for pathogens. Care of cacti is minimal but important. The soil should not be cultivated or otherwise disturbed in a radius of several feet around cacti, lest their shallow lateral roots be injured or disturbed. Light surface raking is permissible for the sake of appearance. Crushed granite, natural stone or organic surface mulches may be used over cactus beds for decoration and protective effect. Don’t mulch with any materials that reflect or intensify light. Don’t cover root zones with plastic sheets. Irrigation typically is not necessary for native cactus plants except for critical periods of prolonged summer drought. Irrigation is a critical consideration in the culture of native desert plants. Never puddle water around the base of cacti for any period of time. Enough moisture is vitally necessary, but excess water can be particularly hazardous to plant survival. Soil surfaces should slope moderately away from these plants, so water will not collect at the base of their stems. Plants may succumb to rots. Unless you know for sure cactus is suffering from lack of moisture, don’t irrigate it! Check the soil moisture at rooting depth before subsequent watering to avoid overly wet soils. Irrigate sufficiently to keep the soil in the rooting area slightly damp after transplanting and until new root development begins and the plant becomes established. Established younger plants usually need not be irrigated more than about every two weeks during southern Arizona summers and older plants probably only once to twice each month. With normal amounts of rainfall, no irrigation will be needed during the cooler season from late fall until early spring. Wet soils can be particularly detrimental and even more likely to promote rots during cooler seasons when plants are dormant (not growing). Don’t over-irrigate at any time, if in doubt, don’t. Most desert plants are more tolerant of too little soil moisture than too much. Fertilization is generally not necessary; however, limited cautious application of a well-balanced fertilizer early in the growing season will stimulate growth and vigor. Stimulated growth of cacti in the fall by fertilization or irrigation makes them more susceptible to winter freeze injury. No irrigation or fertilizer is required during the winter months.
Agave, Yucca and Ocotillo
Agaves are one of several types of “succulent” (high moisture content) plants. They typically have thick fleshy leaves and depending on the species may have numerous spines on the tips or margins of the leaves. Some may have no spines at all. The “century plant” is the most commonly grown in local landscapes; however, there are numerous other agaves equally appropriate and often more desirable for specific desert landscape use. Actually considerable variety in size, color and form are available within this interesting family of deserttolerant succulents. Many varieties of agave die soon after flowering, however, some varieties will produce offsets around the base of the original plant which will develop and replace the original plant. Some varieties such as Octopus agave (Agave vilmoriniana) produce small plants (bulbils) on the flower stalk; that can be removed and easily rooted. Yuccas are also naturals for any Southwest desert scene. Their characteristic profiles offer aesthetic contrast when appropriately displayed in desert landscapes. Yuccas, unlike agaves will bloom year after year and the plant will not die after blooming. Many yuccas have sword-like leaves, and at maturity may either be small trunkless plants or have large stems or trunks. Here too, there is more variety than the average gardener would expect. Growth of yuccas occur at top and center of the plant. As their older leaves mature and hang downward, the plant depicts a rustic shaggy appearance. Ocotillo is another unique native desert plant that lends striking accent with its low-branching, leafy, whiplike canes topped with bright orange-red flowers. Ocotillos can grow to 15 feet in height and as wide. They are typically leafless most of the year, but profuse leafing of the canes follows periods of sufficient soil moisture. During periods of drought, these curious plants shed their leaves to reduce evaporative loss and conserve plant moisture. Widely adaptable to landscape use, ocotillos are right at home in the desert Southwest. Transplanting of these desert plants can also be done the year around with knowledgeable care, but greatest success is achieved during March through May. Transplant to the original growing depth and, as with cacti, in their original directional orientation. The original south side of the plant, which has become more heat and sunlight-resistant, should again face the hotter southern direction. Well drained sandy or gravelly loam soils with light to moderate amounts of organic content favor root development of these desert plants. To help prevent the newly transplanted ocotillo from falling over or blowing down in a storm, large stones may be placed overthe root area (2-4 inches from the trunk). Sunny, open, unrestricted locations and those where surface water does not collect are best. Some degree of growth set-back is to be expected. Properly transplanted, however, natural desert plants reestablish themselves fairly successfully. Most yuccas and agaves can be dug, the injured and diseased roots pruned off, and transplanted immediately or held in shaded, open-air storage for a few days to allow root cuts to heal. It’s not necessary, nor recommended, that the tops of any cacti, agave, yucca or ocotillo plants be pruned back when transplanting. Agaves and yuccas benefit from shade cloth draped over the transplanted plants and removed at first signs of establishment and growth. Be patient with transplants some may take up to a year to recover and reestablish in their new locations. As an alternative, many yucca species are container grown and available from specialty nurseries. Fertilization with a well-balanced plant food in light to moderate amounts will usually help stimulate plant growth and vigor. However, do not apply fertilizer to newly transplanted plants. When using fertilizers, apply them evenly to the soil surface over the rooting area and water it into the soil with an early summer irrigation. Don’t risk over-fertilizing. As with irrigation - if in doubt, don’t. Remember, these plants survive in nature on naturally-occurring fertility.

Pests
Pests of cacti are not so numerous as they are serious. Among the most hazardous are people. Vandals and well-meaning, over-zealous, but uninformed gardeners often cause needless damage. Spider mites on yuccas, mealy bugs on stems and roots of various cacti, cochineal scale on prickly pear cactus, the cactus longhorn beetle on cholla and prickly pear and pocket gophers and ground squirrels on desert plants are in general the most common insect and animal pests. The agave may be attacked by the agave snout weevil. Damage to agave foliage can result in scarring and potential entry of rot producing organisms, so care should be taken when working with agaves. Never remove healthy foliage, and never prune agaves. Woodpeckers can do considerable damage to saguaro cacti. Check with a recognized authority for specific controls for these pests. Rots result from various forms of injury. Bacterial soft rot (Erwinia carnegiana) is the primary disease of saguaro and control measures include removal of the soft, black rotting tissue and treating with a solution of one part household bleach to 10 parts water. All tools such as knives should be sharp and sterile. Use a 10% household bleach solution to clean tools. Re-clean tools in the bleach solution after each cut. Take care to remove all discolored plant tissue. The best controls are always prevention. The second best is quick healing before infection can set in. Powdered sulphur can also be dusted into the wounds of cacti as a healing aid. Unless the problem and solution are understood, it most often is best to do nothing without first seeking advice from a competent authority or knowledgeable person.

Author: The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension

Herb Container Gardens

Growing herbs can be a fun and rewarding gardening experience. A container herb garden is an attractive and useful asset to the patio, balcony, or doorstep for people with little or no garden space. The key to a successful container herb garden is selection of appropriate:

a. Container garden sites
b. Container sizes
c. Potting media
d. Container-friendly herbs
e. Planting procedures
f. Care and harvest methods

CONTAINER GARDEN SITE
Herbs produce more harvestable leaves and flowers when they are grown in a sunny garden site. Container gardens prefer a site with late afternoon and evening shade, especially in the southern parts of Utah. Place your container garden near a convenient water source and close to the kitchen door, so that you will be more inclined to use the herbs in your cooking or garnishing.

PROPER SIZE CONTAINER
At maturity, herbs have root systems a little larger than their top growth. Therefore, it is important to choose a container large enough to allow space for roots to grow. Herbs vary in size, but the general rule of thumb is to allow each herb one gallon of potting mix. For example, a 12-inch pot contains about 3 ½ gallons of potting media, so it can hold 3 or 4 herb plants. A 16-inch pot contains about 5 ½ gallons of media, so it can support about 5 or 6 herb plants. Make sure the pot has adequate drainage holes.

POTTING MEDIA
Container garden plants grow best in good quality potting mix or ‘growing medium’ rather than real soil. Potting mix is sterile, retains moisture and allows for aeration at the same time. Mixes usually contain sphagnum peat moss, perlite or vermiculite, and possibly sand or fine pine bark.
Most potting mixes contain no fertilizer, so you may either mix a granular complete fertilizer plus a trace element fertilizer into the potting media before planting, or you may use a soluble complete fertilizer after planting. With any fertilizer, use an application rate on the low end of the scale, to encourage better herbal flavor and aroma.

CONTAINER-FRIENDLY HERBS
Some types of herbs will out-perform others in containers. Use annual herbs (See Table 1) in the Wasatch Front and northern Utah areas or plan to bring the containers of perennial herbs indoors during winter. In southern Utah, perennial herbs hardy to USDA Zone 7 and 8 may over-winter in containers, as long as the container is in a protected area and adequate moisture is provided. However, even hardy perennials may die in a container over winter. Choose herbs that grow in a compact habit. Tall herbs, such as dill and fennel, may look too large for the scale of the container, and the increased top weight may cause the container to topple over. Select drought-tolerant herbs in case the container accidentally misses a watering. Trailing herbs are especially attractive in container gardens, because they drape in cascades over the pot edges.

PLANTING PROCEDURES
When potting transplants, be sure to plant them at the correct depth. The top of the transplant root ball should be level or slightly below the potting mix surface in the new pot. When you are transplanting plants from various size pots, you must adjust the planting depth accordingly, since the plants will have different size root balls. Start with a moist, but not saturated, potting medium. Most potting mixes will wet more easily with warm water. Add moist potting mix into the pot until the tallest transplant root ball can sit with its top surface about ¾ inch below the pot rim. Continue adding potting media and transplants until the pot is filled to within ¾ inch of the top edge of the pot but do not pack down the potting media as you fill the pot. Water the pot thoroughly, until water drips through the bottom drainage holes.

CARE AND HARVESTING METHODS
The most common problem with container gardens is watering – either too much or too little. Watering too often may cause fungal infestation, fungus gnats, and root rot. Symptoms of over-watering include wilting, stunted growth, fungus gnats, and reduced root growth. Too little water will cause wilting and scorching. Repeated wilting, even if the plant survives, will stunt the plant’s growth and reduce flower quality. At each watering, add water until it runs through the bottom of the pot. Ideally, you will water your container garden only when needed. Feel the potting mix 2 to 3 inches below the surface. If it is still wet, don’t water. Tip the pot gently to gauge its weight. When the pot begins to feel significantly lighter in weight, it’s time to water. When the plants are small, they will use less water, and you may water as seldom as every 5 to 6 days. During the heat of summer, when your herbs have matured and their roots penetrate the entire pot, you may need to water as often as every day. If you have incorporated slow-release fertilizer into the potting mix, you should not need to fertilize again for at least 2 months. If you did not add fertilizer to the potting mix, use a soluble complete fertilizer at the recommended rate every third or fourth watering. Herbs are usually pest-resistant, but keep an eye out for caterpillars, aphids, and spider mites. If a large caterpillar is eating your parsley, think twice about killing it; it is probably a swallowtail butterfly larva! Since you will be eating the leaves of your herb plants, use insecticidal soap rather than an insecticide to control insect pests. One teaspoon of liquid soap (not detergent) per gallon of water, applied with a sprayer, will wash away the aphids or spider mites. This organic control must be re-applied every 3 to 4 days until the pests are no longer present.
Harvesting the herbs regularly keeps the plants’ growth under control and encourages continued production. Harvest the herbs during a dry morning or just after the dew dries. Use them fresh for best flavor, or preserve them by drying or freezing. At the end of the season, you may save some of the tender perennial herb plants, such as rosemary, and marjoram. After you are certain they are free of pests, bring them into your home. Place them in a sunny window, or provide artificial light for about 14 hours per day. Water them as you do any houseplant. Tender perennials may be protected in winter if they are planted in the ground next to the south wall of your home or on the south side of a stone wall. Such a site will protect herbs that are hardy within one or two USDA zones. Apply mulch around the herbs 6 to 8 inches deep. Check them frequently for rodent damage. Don’t forget that herbs over-wintering outdoors may need water, especially during a dry winter.

Authors: Maggie Wolf & Teresa Cerny

Growing Awesome Asparagus

Asparagus, one of the most popular spring vegetables, is a hardy perennial plant that produces edible spears earlier than any other garden vegetable. Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a native of central Asia but is grown throughout the world. For more than 2,000 years, it has been cultivated for food and valued for its medicinal properties. Early colonists brought it to America as seed. Asparagus is a wholesome, nutritious food whether used fresh, frozen, or canned. It is low in calories but high in flavor. A serving of four spears of asparagus contains just 10 calories and only traces of fat. Compared to other vegetables, asparagus is a good source of vitamins A, B1, B2, riboflavin, and thiamin. Asparagus requires little care. Plantings will produce good crops for 15 to 20 years if soil conditions are favorable and if good cultural practices are followed.

Site Selection
Asparagus grows on almost any type of well-drained soil. It will not tolerate poorly drained soil. A deep loam or sandy loam is best. Select a location on the edge of the garden or nearby that does not interfere with annual garden tillage and management. The site should receive full sunlight and not be shaded by trees or buildings. Plant on the north side of the garden to avoid shading other vegetables.

Soil Preparation
Since asparagus occupies an area for several years, give careful attention to soil preparation before planting. If manure is available, turn it under in the fall, preceding planting. If you only have a small amount of manure, put it in the bottom of the furrow at planting. Leaves, sawdust, or other organic materials may be used if manure is not available. If coarse, fibrous material is used, supplemental nitrogen fertilizer should be added to aid decomposition and to prevent a nitrogen deficiency. A soil test to determine fertility needs and soil pH is advisable. A neutral to slightly acidic (pH 6.7–7.0) soil is optimum although good production can be expected on slightly alkaline soils (pH 7.0–7.4). If a soil test indicates a pH below 6.0, apply limestone. A soil test also determines the levels of essential plant nutrients in the soil. For small plantings, a “complete” fertilizer may be used if a soil test has not been made. Apply a 10-10-10, 12-12-12, or similar analysis fertilizer at 1.5 to 2 lb. per 100 sq. ft.

Cultivars
Many new asparagus cultivars have been introduced in recent years. Many of these new cultivars are “male” hybrids. Asparagus is a dioecious plant, meaning there are separate male and female plants. Female asparagus plants produce berries that drop from the plant, selfseed, and can create a crowded planting. Male plants live longer, yield more, and eliminate the seedling weed problem. Yields of the male hybrids can be 1.5 to 3 times higher than Martha Washington and Watham Washington cultivars. Jersey Giant and Jersey Knight are rustresistant, fusarium-tolerant male-hybrid cultivars recommended for gardens. Purple Passion is a distinctive cultivar that home gardeners may wish to try. It has large spears with purple coloration and a taste sweeter than other cultivars. Home gardeners find it more convenient to buy crowns for planting than to grow from seed. (Commercial growers often produce their own crowns from seed to reduce planting costs, but this procedure requires an extra year before the asparagus comes into production.) One-year-old crowns are better than 2- or 3-year-old crowns for transplanting. It is not advisable to establish a new bed with old crowns from an old planting. Older crowns are difficult to dig and are injured in the process, resulting in reduced yields.

Planting
Early spring is the best time for planting. Research in gardening has shown heavy plant loss from fall planting. Planting depth varies with soil type. A planting depth of 6 to 8 in. (6 in. from the top of the crown to the soil surface) is sufficient on light, sandy soils. A 4-in. planting depth is recommended on heavier soils. Space the crowns 12 to 18 in. apart in rows 4 to 5 ft. apart. The bottom of the furrow should be wide enough to accommodate the roots without crowding. Spread the roots, with buds up, and cover with soil. It is not necessary to fill the furrows in gradually when planting the hybrid cultivars.

Weed Control
Weeds can become a major problem in asparagus production. In established plantings (3 years after transplanting), a thorough tilling before spring growth begins is a helpful control measure. Another shallow tilling about May 15 with a third tilling when the cutting season ends will usually keep most weeds under control. Common salt is not effective in controlling weeds in asparagus. Furthermore, continued use may eventually cause undesirable soil structure and reduce yields in future years. Asparagus grows naturally on the banks of streams and near salt marshes, where the salt content of the soil is high and the pH somewhat alkaline. Asparagus will thrive in soils having a salt content too high for many other vegetables. However, research in gardening has shown that salt killed broadleaf weeds, such as pigweed and lamb’s-quarter, but only stunted the grasses. They also found that the grasses quickly recovered after a rain. No evidence was found of salt benefiting the asparagus. In many instances, the salt reduced the stand and yield. Several chemicals for controlling weeds in asparagus have come into use in recent years. These can be expected to give good results if carefully applied at the proper time Follow label directions and precautions to prevent damage to sensitive vegetable or ornamental crops. Do not spray asparagus after the spears have emerged. It is a good idea to reserve one sprayer tank for weed control only. If the same tank is used to apply pesticides to sensitive crops, it should be cleaned thoroughly several times with water containing a detergent.

Insect Pests
Asparagus Beetles
Two closely related but different-looking insect pests,the asparagus beetle and the spotted asparagus beetle, occasionally attack asparagus beds in Iowa. When the shoots appear in the spring, these beetles emerge from their sheltered, overwintering locations to chew on the tips and buds of spears. Shoots are disfigured, scarred, and brown. Both species of the asparagus beetle are oval shaped and about 6 mm long (.25 in.). The asparagus beetle is a brilliant, metallic blueblack with 6 large, square, yellowish spots. The spotted asparagus beetle is reddish orange with 12 prominent spots. The beetles lay eggs on the shoots. Larvae of the asparagus beetle are dark green to gray, black headed, grub-like, and about 6 mm long (.25 in.). Larvae feed on the shoot tips and foliage and produce a brown stain on the spears. This makes much of the crop unusable and also weakens the plant, reducing yields the following year. Larvae of the spotted asparagus beetle are similar in size and appearance to larvae of the asparagus beetle, but they are orange. They bore into the developing berries to feed.

Control
Keeping weeds and debris out of asparagus beds reduces sites for the adult beetles to overwinter. A prompt and complete harvest also helps prevent establishment of larvae. If you have a limited number of plants and beetles, handpicking may be an appropriate control. Populations of the spotted asparagus beetle larvae can be reduced by gathering and destroying infested berries. Natural and domestic predators (ducks, chickens) can help slow population buildup during the summer. Insecticide dusts or sprays can be applied to spears or foliage as needed when adults or larvae are present. Labeled compounds include methoxychlor and Sevin. Read and follow all label directions before use.

Aphids
Large populations of aphids occasionally build up on asparagus ferns. These can be easily controlled by “washing” the aphids from the plants with a forceful stream of water from the garden hose. Detergent sprays made by mixing liquid dishwashing detergent in water (prepared to a concentration of 1 to 2 percent detergent) also will be effective. The insecticides mentioned under asparagus beetle control will help control aphids.

Harvesting
Allow asparagus plants to become well established before any spears are harvested. No spears should be cut the first year. Harvest only for 4 weeks the second year. Extended harvesting the first 2 years after planting will slow the development of the crowns and reduce future yields. Harvest in the third and following years should not continue beyond June 15. This allows the plants to develop strong, healthy tops and to produce enough food reserves in the crowns for next year’s production. The previous season’s topgrowth can be used as a guide for the harvest period. The greater the topgrowth, the greater the next season’s crop. If you start harvesting early because of warm spring weather (before April 15), be sure to stop before the June 15 date. Production from an asparagus planting should increase annually up to the seventh or eighth year and then continue at or very near this high level for several seasons. A poor, first-year stand is the greatest single cause of poor yields. For maximum yield, spears should be 6- to 8-in. long when harvested. Tender spears are sensitive to frost damage; so in early spring it is advisable to cut the spears prior to the 8-in. height. Harvest by cutting or snapping the spears. Use a sharp knife to cut the spears at the soil surface. Cutting below the soil surface may damage spears that have not yet emerged. Breaking or snapping also is a satisfactory method for harvesting asparagus. Break or snap the spears slightly above the ground. How often one should harvest depends on temperature and moisture conditions. If temperatures are high, it may be necessary to harvest every day. In cooler periods, cutting may be done at 2- to 3-day intervals. “Clean cutting” is desirable during the entire harvest season. Any fern growth will delay or stop the development of new spears. Asparagus deteriorates rapidly after harvest. Keep the spears cool (35° to 40°F) in order to retard fiber development.

After Harvest Care
The care an asparagus planting receives after the harvest season is important to future yields and quality. Incorporate approximately 50 lb. of manure per 100 sq. ft. into the soil when the asparagus tops are tilled in late fall or early spring. Adding manure eliminates the need to apply 1 to 1.5 lb. of a 1-1-1 fertilizer ratio, such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12, per 100 sq. ft. in the spring before the spears emerge. After the last harvest in mid-June, apply .10 lb. of actual nitrogen per 100 sq. ft. (such as .3 lb. of ammonium nitrate 33-0-0). Allow asparagus tops to grow after final harvest. This top growth provides the food material stored in the fleshy roots and crowns. Removing the tops during the growing season can seriously reduce future yields. Leave the tops standing over winter to catch and hold snow. This prevents deep freezing and sudden changes in soil temperature. Remove the dead tops early in spring before growth begins.

Prepared by Henry G. Taber and Vince Lawson

Apples and Pears

Apple and pear trees do best in climates that have at least 1,000 hours of winter chilling below 45°F and moderate summer temperatures. They are available on an assortment of rootstocks that provide a wide range of vigor and size control. Some varieties set an adequate crop without the presence of a cross-pollinating variety, but others do not. Be sure to check the cross-pollination requirements for each variety that you plant.

Winter Dormant Season
Plant new trees during the dormant season. With few exceptions, areas with adequate chilling for apples and pears also have sufficient winter rainfall to maintain adequate soil moisture. However, if rainfall is below normal, irrigate the trees once during the winter, allowing the water to soak to a depth of 2 to 3 feet to encourage deep rooting. Prune out 15 to 20 percent of last years growth to let light into the tree center. Remove broken, drooping, crossed, or diseased limbs, as well as water sprouts and root suckers. Spur-prune Asian pears to a length of three buds. If scale insects, aphids, or mites cause recurring problems, follow the label instructions to apply a dormant oil spray to control these pests. Paint trunks and lower branches of young or non-vigorous trees with a 1:1 mixture of white interior latex paint and water to prevent sunburn injury during summer. Apply the paint mixture from two inches below the soil surface to two feet above. Rake and remove all fallen leaves to help control apple scab and powdery mildew.

Spring Bloom Season
To help prevent powdery mildew, spray trees with a fungicide such as calcium polysulfide (liquid lime-sulfur) or wettable sulfur. Apply first at the green-tip stage (when you can see a pale green color in the swelling buds at the tips of spurs) and again at the pink bud stage (when the flower buds have taken on a pink hue and are just about to open), and then repeat at 10-day intervals until rains stop. Fireblight is a serious bacterial disease of pears and apples. To control, prune out infected limbs, making your pruning cuts in healthy wood at least 12 inches below the dead portion of the branch. Remove and destroy all diseased wood. A spray application of fixed copper every five days during bloom may help control the disease, although copper causes russetting on some apple and pear varieties. Control of codling moth (worms in ripening fruit) must begin in spring, shortly after petal fall, and may require repeated applications of insecticides. One suggested method to reduce codling moth damage without spraying is to bag the fruit after it has been thinned. Cut a small hole in the bottom of a brown paper lunch sack and slip the hole over a small developing fruit. Staple the mouth of the bag shut to exclude adult moths. Fertilize trees before the first spring irrigation. Apply fertilizer to young trees twice (in May and July); use about 4 to 8 ounces of ammonium sulfate at each application. Large, mature trees should receive about 4 pounds of ammonium sulfate over the course of the growing season. Other fertilizers should be applied according to label recommendations. When fruit of red apple varieties is 3/4 inch in diameter, thin the fruit to one fruit every 6 inches of shoot growth or one fruit per cluster. Yellow and green apple varieties generally produce well if thinned to two fruit per cluster. This helps increase fruit size and reduce damage from codling moths. Pears are not usually thinned. However, the Asian pear varieties are an exception. They are thinned twice: once just after bloom to reduce alternate bearing and once 30 to 60 days after bloom to increase fruit size. The final crop of Asian pears should be spaced 5 to 7 inches apart on the branch.

Summer Growing Season
If you use drip irrigation, apply just the amount of water needed to replace what is used by the tree and lost from the soil through evaporation. If you use sprinkler or flood irrigation, water about every two to three weeks and provide enough water to wet the soil to a depth of 18 to 24 inches. Young, small trees will need about 4 to 12 gallons of water per day, and large trees will need as much as 200 gallons per week during the hottest summer months, July and August. Water requirements will vary depending on environmental conditions and your soil type. Irrigate at the drip line, well away from the trunk of the tree. Discard any overripe or fallen fruit to reduce new generations of pests such as codling moths. Harvest when fruit is fully mature and has full color. Lift apples up and back over the spur to remove them, rather than pulling down on the fruit. Pears vary in terms of when they are harvested. European pears, such as the Bartlett, are harvested when green and hard and stored at 32°F. Then they are allowed to soften at room temperature. Asian pears are allowed to ripen on the tree. All pears are harvested by gently lifting up the fruit until it separates from the spur. Do not twist or pull.

Autumn
Continue regular irrigation until fall rains and cold weather arrive. Pick up all fallen leaves to lessen the potential for apple scab infection in the following season. To reduce overwintering pests, clean up all fallen fruit and any overripe fruit still remaining on the tree.

Authors: Pamela M. Geisel & Paul Vossen

Grow your own cabbage

In a home garden, you probably need only a few cabbage plants. It usually is easier to but cabbage plants than to start with seed. By buying plants, you can get different kinds. One package of seeds is enough to plant 100 feet of row - about 75 to 100 plants. Look for these kinds of plants:

Green Cabbage
Stonehead, GoldAcre, Ballhead, Roundup, KingCole, Market Prize, Tastie
Savoy Cabbage
Chieftain, Savoy King
Red Cabbage
Red Head, Red Danish, Ruby Ball
Chinese Cabbage
Blues, China Express, Nerva, Spring A-1

Getting the Soil Ready
Cabbage grows best when the soil is moist and fertile. To make soil fertile, use 3 to 4 cupps of 16-16-16 fertilizer for an area 10 feet wide. Spread the fertilizer so its evene throughout the soil. Plow or spade the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. Break the clods and rake the soil to smooth the surface.

Planting
Cabbage grows even when ther still is frost, so you can set your plants or seed in the garden in early April. You may purchase plants at a garden store or you may frow your own.
If you start your own plants fron seed, plants the seeds about 1/2 inch deep and about 1 inch apart in the row. When the palnts are about 3-5 inches tall, you will want to plant them in another part or the garden where there is more space.
To transplant young cabbage plants, follow these directions:

• Dig holes that are 1 to 2 feet apart and about 2 inches deep.
• Carfully take the plants from the soil. Leave as much soil around the roots as possible.
• Put the plants in the hole and quickly fill in the hole with soil. Pack the soil around the roots firmly, but not tightly.
• Water the plants at once with starter solution.

• To prevent your cabbage plants from drying out, transplant them in the evening or on a cloudy day

Growing
Hoe the soil just under the surface. Cabbage roots are very close to the surface and can be injured easily. Don't hoe under the cabbage leaves.

Insect pests
Cabbage has many pests. You can avoid most of these pests if you plant early in the spring. Work diazinon into the soild for root maggot control. If you see the the cabbage leaves are eaten of damaged by worms, you may want to use one or more of the insecticides available in garden supply store. Be sure the insecticide is labeled for cabbage, and follow the directions on the label. You also can use tow covers over transplants to exlcude troublesome insects. You can leave the row covers on until harvest or until daytime air temperatures exceed 80 degrees.

Harvesting
Cabbage is ready to pick when the heads seel solid. If you will have many heads ready at the same time, start using the heads early. After you cut the heads, try letting one or two suckers grow from each stump. These will form miniature heads a few weeks later.

Cleanup
You also can pull out and discard cabbage plants as soon as discard cabbage plants as soon as the harvest is over. Early cabbage might be followed by a late summer frop of lettuce, spinach, or radishes.

Serving
Raw cabbage is a good source of vitamin C and other vitamins. Some vitamins may be lost in cooking. Cabbage is good served raw in slaw and salads. You may cook cabbage in a small amount of boiling water until just tender. You also can make it into sauerkraut. The outer leaves of cabbage are high in nutrients, so dont throw them out unless they are wilted or tough.

Storing
To keep cabbage crisp and fresh, store it moist in a plastic bag or in a covered container in the refrigerator. It will keep 1 to 2 weeks. Cabbage is best fresh, but it can be kept for several months if kept in a cool, mosit place like a cellar or basement.

Vegetable Gardening

Vegetable Gardening—Getting started
When you are starting to grow vegetables the area that you want to use might be covered in weeds. The overgrown area Don’t rush this job. You need to clear the area really well.
· Cut down all the tall growth.
· Cover the ground with a mulch. This will keep the light out and so kill the weeds. This could be flattened cardboard kept in place with straw, hay, bricks, grass clippings or black plastic. This will stop the weeds from growing. Pumpkins and other vigorous plants can be planted through the mulch.
· You can then clear small areas of the garden at a time. Clear the weeds using a garden fork. Remove all the roots. Then sow a green manure or cover with a mulch.
· Until the weeds are under control, grow crops in wide rows. This means you can hoe between them easily to remove weeds.

Planning
To get the best from your garden you need to plan. Measure the area of your vegetable garden and draw an outline. Mark in any features that you want to keep, like trees and then plan the rest of the area using the following ideas.

Essential soil improvers
If you have space either in the vegetable garden or elsewhere in the school grounds set up a compost and a leafmould bin:
Compost bins should measure about 1m³. Leafmould bins should measure 1m³ or more. Make a bin by wrapping chicken wire around four posts.

Permanent Crops
· Why not try to grow fruit and other perennial crops, that come back year after year? You will need to plan where these will go.
· Think about how far apart the plants need to be so that you have enough space.
· If you have a fence you can save space by growing redcurrants and gooseberries as espaliers, cordons and fans. (these are different shapes. You will find information on them in vegetable gardening books.)
· Russian comfrey– grow three or more plants if you want to make your own liquid plant food.

Vegetables
· Divide the vegetable area into four plots that are all the same size so that you can rotate the crops.
· Divide up the four plots into small beds about 1 metre wide.
· Remember when planning the crop rotation to include green manures to improve the soil.

Welcoming wildlife
Wildlife can help control pests and diseases. Create a few ‘habitats’ to welcome creatures into your garden.
· Perennials - ground cover, herbaceous plants and small shrubs can provide food and shelter for many creatures, but won’t take up too much space.
· Annuals - these brighten up the vegetable garden and are food for insect eating pests.
· A pond - will attract frogs and other creatures that will help control pests.
Useful techniques
· Plant vegetable seeds and start them off indoors. Plant out when they are bigger. This will help them to stand up to pest and disease attack.
· Protect new plants with plastic bottle cloches. (Plastic bottles with the lid taken off and the bottom cut off)
· Mark out straight drills for sowing by standing on a rake handle or using a draw hoe along a straight edge. Water drill before sowing and cover seeds with dry soil.
· Before moving water plants and the planting holes where they are to grow.
· Cover vulnerable plants (those that are likely to be attacked) with fleece or mesh to protect them from pests.
· Grow pest and disease resistant varieties of vegetables and fruit.
· Label rows and keep a note of what grew where—it will make planning the area next year easier.
· Remember to grow plants that will not need care over the holidays (particularly summer) unless you have a volunteer to go into school and care for the plants.

Seasonal Hints
Late summer/early autumn
· Sow green manures as you harvest crops and clear the land.
· Collect autumn leaves to make leafmould. Simply put them into a container made of wire or an open black plastic bag and leave them for a year to rot down.
· Plant autumn onion sets and garlic.
Autumn/winter
· Buy in strawy manure; cover with plastic and leave to rot.
· Cover bare soil with year old leafmould, particularly the areas where you are going to plant next years carrots and parsnips.
· Dig a trench and fill with kitchen waste over winter. Grow runner beans here next year.
Spring
· Dig in green manures
· Put garden compost or manure on to the parts of the crop rotation that need it, where you are going to grow greedy crops for example potatoes and cabbages.

General hints and tips
· Wooden boards can be laid down between rows to stop the soil getting compacted.
· Make large cloches from four litre plastic bottles. Remove the lid and cut off the base.

How to Grow Tomatoes

Tomatoes are the most popular vegetable in the home garden. They are available in a variety of sizes, shapes, and colors—including red, yellow, orange, and pink. Sizes vary from the bite-sized cherry tomatoes to the giant beefsteak varieties. Tomatoes may be round, oblate (fruit are flattened at the top and bottom), or pear-shaped. Tomatoes are low in calories and a good source of vitamin C and antioxidants. Determinate tomatoes are small, compact plants that grow to a certain height, then flower and set all their fruit within a short time. The harvest period for determinate tomatoes is generally short, making them good choices for canning.
Indeterminate tomatoes continue to grow, flfl ower, and set fruit until killed by the first fall frost. Thus, the harvest from indeterminate varieties often extends over 2 or 3 months. Yields are generally heavier than determinate types, but are usually later to mature. Indeterminate tomatoes are tall, sprawling plants that often perform best when supported by stakes or a tall wire cage.

Cultivars
The following cultivars have proven themselves in Iowa State University test trials and are recommended for growing in Iowa. Fruit production generally begins in mid-July. Recommended early-fruiting varieties are
‘Early Girl’, ‘Pik Red’, and ‘First Pik’.

Heirloom varieties
Heirloom tomatoes are old varieties whose seeds have been passed down from generation to generation. They are not hybrids like many modern tomato varieties. Heirloom tomatoes are open pollinated. Heirloom tomatoes are popular for a number of reasons. Many gardeners believe the flavor of heirloom tomatoes is better than many modern hybrids that were developed primarily for commercial production and long-distance shipping. They come in all shapes and sizes, and virtually every color of the rainbow (except blue).

Planting
Tomatoes can be grown in many different soil types, but deep, loamy, well-drained soils are best. As with most garden vegetables, tomatoes prefer a slightly acid soil
with a pH of 6.2 to 6.8. Tomatoes need at least 6 hours of direct sun daily for best yields. Tomato plants can be started indoors or purchased at garden centers. Indoors, tomatoes should be started 5 to 6 weeks before the intended outdoor planting date. After germination, place the seedlings under artificial lighting or in a sunny window. When purchasing tomato plants, select stocky, dark green plants that do not have fruits. Fruits stunt plant growth and reduce total yield. Harden or acclimate the plants to outdoor conditions before transplanting into the garden.
Initially place the plants in a shady location out of the wind, then gradually expose them to longer periods of sunlight. After several days the tomatoes should be ready to be planted into the garden.
Transplant tomatoes into the garden after the danger of frost is past. In central Iowa, May 10 is the suggested planting date. Gardeners in southern Iowa can plant one
week earlier, while those in northern areas should wait an extra week. The last practical date for planting tomatoes is about June 20. Set plants into the soil deeply, up to their first true leaves. Pinch off the bottom leaves of tall, spindly transplants and lay them sideways in a trench. Carefully bend the stem upward so that the upper few inches of stem are above the soil surface. Roots will develop all along the buried stem. If plants have been started in peat pots, tear off the top
edge or make sure the top edge is well below the soil surface once planted. If the top edge of the peat pot is exposed to the air, it will act like a wick and draw water away from the plant. If the tomatoes are in plastic pots or cell-paks, carefully tap out the plants. Use a sharp knife to cut around plants growing in small flats.

Fertilizing
If a soil test has not been conducted, an application of 1 to 2 pounds of an all-purpose garden fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, per 100 square feet is usually adequate. Apply and work the fertilizer into the soil before planting. After transplanting, feed the tomato plants with a starter fertilizer solution. Dissolve 1 or 2 tablespoons of a 5-10-5 or 6-10-4 fertilizer in a gallon of water, then pour one cup of the solution at the base of each plant.

Spacing
How close plants can be set depends on the growth habit of the variety and the training system used.
Indeterminate varieties that are staked can be planted 11⁄ 2 ⁄ to 2 feet apart within the rows. If grown in wire cages, indeterminate plants need 2 to 3 feet of space between them. Tomatoes that are allowed to sprawl over the ground should be spaced 3 to 4 feet apart. Rows should be spaced 4 to 5 feet apart. Determinate, ground-grown tomatoes can be planted 11⁄ 2 ⁄ to 2 feet apart in rows that are about 4 feet apart.

Training
Several methods can be used to train tomatoes but the single stake and wire cage are preferred by most gardeners. Either method offers several advantages. When grown as trained plants, tomatoes require a relatively small amount of space, yet are capable of producing 8 to 10 pounds or more of fruit per plant. Cultivating and harvesting is easier with trained tomatoes. Tomato blight problems are generally less severe because of better air circulation. Trained tomato plants often produce better quality fruit than those allowed to sprawl on the ground.

Single Stake Method
Staking tomato plants to a single stem should produce an earlier crop. However, the fruit of staked plants are more susceptible to sunscald and blossom end rot as the removal of sucker growth reduces the leaf canopy. Total yield is lower than other training methods. If the lowest sucker is allowed to develop into a second stem, the additional foliage should reduce the occurrence of sunscald. Staking is not recommended for the shorter growing, determinate tomato varieties because yields will be drastically reduced.
Within 2 weeks of planting, drive a single, 8-foot-long stake about 2 feet into the ground approximately 3 to 4 inches from each plant. Plant roots may be injured if the stakes are put in later. Tie the plant to the stake with strips of old nylon hose or cloth about every 12 inches up the stem.
Tie the material in a loose figure eight, with the stake in one loop and the stem in the other. When training the plant to a single stem, pinch out the sideshoots or suckers that form in the axil of the leaf and stem.

Wire Cage Method
A popular method of training tomatoes that requires less attention is the wire cage. Plants grown in wire cages don’t need to be tied to the cage or pruned. As the plant grows, simply place wayward stems back within the wire cage. The yield from caged tomatoes should be larger than with other growing methods. There also should be fewer fruit problems. A tomato cage can be constructed from concrete reinforcing wire or similar material. Manufactured cages are available at garden centers. When
constructing a wire cage, the mesh must be large enough to enable you to pick the fruit. An excellent size cage is 20 to 24 inches in diameter and 4 to 5 feet tall. Remove the horizontal wire at the bottom of the cage and stick the vertical wires or “feet” into the soil. For greater stability, drive 1 or 2 stakes into the ground next to the cage and fasten the cage to the stakes. Estimated Yield Average yield with good management practices should be about 60 pounds per 10-foot row or 12 to 15 tons per acre. Care during the growing season Good management includes monitoring plants for pests and diseases and adding mulch and water as needed.

Mulch
Covering the soil surface around tomato plants with mulch encourages healthy plant growth by helping to
• conserve moisture and help maintain a consistent soil
moisture level, thus reducing risk for blossom end rot;
• control weeds, thus reducing root competition
for moisture and nutrients;
• moderate soil temperatures;
• reduce fruit spoilage; and
• keep fruits and leaves free of rain-spattered soil that
could encourage spread of disease.
Several organic materials can be used as mulches. These include lawn clippings, tree leaves, straw, pine needles, shredded newspapers or whole sheets, ground corncobs, sawdust, and wood chips. Do not collect grass clippings from lawns that have been treated with broadleaf herbicides until they have been mowed 3 or 4 times. Depending on the material, a 2 to 4 inch thick layer is usually adequate. Tomatoes have shown significant increases in earliness, yield, and fruit quality when grown on plastic mulch. Black and clear plastic are most often used, but several other colors are available. Some researchers have found certain colors to speed crop development and/or trap insect pests.

Water
Like most vegetables, tomatoes perform best when they receive one inch of water per week. Supplemental watering is best done in the morning and delivered directly
to the soil surrounding the plants. Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed but does dictate frequency of water application. Lighter soils need more frequent water applications, but less water applied per application.

Harvest and storage
Tomatoes should be allowed to ripen fully on the plant. Fully ripe tomatoes are typically red. However, tomatoes that ripen in hot weather are often yellow-orange. The red pigments in the tomato fruits don’t form when temperatures are above 90° F.
Fully ripe tomatoes may be stored in the refrigerator, but only for a few days. The flavor deteriorates when stored longer. At temperatures below 55° F, they lose their flavor in a few hours. Tomatoes will keep 5 to 6 days at room temperature. To slice a tomato, use a knife with a serrated edge so that the tomato is not crushed. To core (remove the stem of) a tomato, use a small paring knife, insert at 45 degrees, and cut around the stem. To peel tomatoes, blanch them for 10 seconds, then cut out the stem and peel the skin down from it. Tomatoes can be processed for later use by drying, or they can be frozen or canned whole, sliced, diced, juiced, or puréed.

How to ripen end-of-season green tomatoes
When frost is imminent, mature green tomatoes can be harvested and ripened indoors. The fruit should be solid, fi rm, free of defects, full-sized, and have a greenish white skin color. Remove the stems, then clean and dry the fruit. Individually wrap each fruit in a piece of newspaper and place in single layers in boxes or shelves. Store the tomatoes in a dark, cool (55–60° F) location, such as a basement or cellar.
Inspect the tomatoes periodically during storage. Discard any soft or decaying fruit. When the tomatoes begin to color, remove the newspaper and place them at room temperature (not in sunlight—sunlight softens them without ripening and strips them of their vitamins A and C). To ripen tomatoes more quickly, put them in a brown paper bag with or without an apple. As apples or tomatoes ripen, they give off ethylene gas. Ethylene speeds up the fruit ripening process when confined in a closed bag. An alternate ripening method is to leave the green tomatoes on the vine, pull the entire plant, and hang it upside down in a cool, dark location. (Obviously, this method can be a bit messy.) Harvest the tomatoes from the vine as they ripen. It also is possible to protect plants by covering with old sheets, blankets, tarps, newspaper, or paper bags.

Tomato Growing Tips - 4 Basic Tips for your Tomato Growing Garden

Author: Kenny Mcyntyre

Even people who don't claim to have green thumbs can usually grow tomatoes. They may not be edible, but they can still grow them. All kidding aside, tomato growing is not all that hard and with a little TLC, you too can grow your own tomatoes. If you're thinking about growing your own tomatoes, you should and with some of the following tips, you'll be picking your own tomatoes very soon and you will tell the difference between store bought and home grown. Once you start tomato growing, you will never buy another tomato from the grocery store ever again.

1. To find good tomato plants, your closest garden center is as far as you need to go to find healthy tomato plants. Ask the gardener working there to help you if you need it, but common sense can be used when choosing healthy plants for tomato growing. Most people can tell the difference between a healthy plant and a limp and wilted plant. Make sure its green with no yellowing or spotted leaves. No matter where you're going to plant your tomatoes, either outside or in a big pot, bury your plant up to the bottom stems. This will allow the plant to sprout new roots and strengthen the tomato growing process. You can completely bury the bottom stems and then just cut them at dirt level.

2. Don't over-feed your tomato plant. Too much nitrogen will give you a beautiful bushy plant, but not a lot of fruit. It's a good idea to prepare the soil before you plant your tomato plant. These plants love rich humus or loamy soil and it's a good idea to add a little potassium for strong stems and just a touch of nitrogen.

3. Water your plants thoroughly and make sure you have good drainage where ever your plants may be. If you live in hot climates and your plants are outside, make sure they will get at least a half of day of shade. Too much heat and the flowers will fall off, falling flowers means no tomatoes and this defeats the tomato growing process entirely. Cover outdoor tomato plants with some kind of mulch, either bark, pine needles or hay. Studies have proven that plants covered in black plastic mulch in early spring produces lots of tomatoes all spring and summer long, especially in cool or cold climates. Infra-red plastic mulch is even better. The person at your garden center should be able to tell you what is best for where you live.

4. Picking off the first batch of flowers will also ensure a healthier plant. Doing this will strengthen the root system and give your plants the chance to mature and fill out before bearing fruit. Stake or cadge your tomato plants so they have support and strength they need to grow big ripe tomatoes. With a little care and a little attention, you will be growing beautiful tomatoes in no time. Cherry or grape tomatoes are great for first time tomato growers. They grow great on a patio or porch and they grow by the bunch. Growing your own tomatoes will save you money and bragging rights about your successful tomato garden.

About the Author:

Did you know that home grown tomatoes are 10 times juicer than the ones sold at your local food market? Kenny Mcyntyre is an expert tomato grower and has been growing tomatoes for over 35 years. Discover how to grow tomatoes and more at home by visiting his tomato growing website here: www.mytomatogarden.com

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Tomato Growing Tips - 4 Basic Tips for your Tomato Growing Garden