Growing Kiwi

While their tastes are similar, hardy kiwifruits are different from the kiwifruits you find in the produce aisle at the supermarket. The hardy kiwifruit (Actinidia arguta) is native to northeastern Asia, while its commercially available cousin (A. chinensis) is native to southern China. In the eastern United
States, the commercial kiwifruit grows only as far north as Maryland and then only in protected spots. Hardy kiwifruit plants tolerate temperatures as low as -25 degrees F or so, but they are sensitive to late spring frosts. The fruits, which are about the size of a large grape, are not covered with fuzz, have small seeds, and can be eaten out of hand without peeling. They have an excellent flavor, can be dried or made into wine, and are higher in vitamin C than most citrus fruits. Some people find they have a strong laxative effect.

Choosing Cultivars
The hardy kiwifruit plant is a strong-growing perennial vine with small leaves and bright red stems. It can grow to 40 feet in length. If not pruned and trained, the vines will grow up trees and over fences. Most plants are dioecious—they bear either male or female flowers but not both. For this reason, you need to plant both a male and a female plant if you want to harvest fruit. Some nurseries sell hermaphroditic plants, which bear flowers of both sexes, but their performance has been poor. In early summer, the vines bear small white flowers with chocolate-colored centers on the previous season’s spur growth. They have a fragrance similar to that of lily-of-the-valley and are pollinated by wind or insects. Greenish yellow fruits develop in the summer and into the fall and ripen very late in the season. Plants usually fruit by their fourth year and bear full crops after the eighth year. Once established, plants can live for 50 or more years. Several cultivars are available through various nurseries.

Propagation
Kiwifruit can be propagated from cuttings or seeds. Take hardwood cuttings anytime after the plant has received 500 hours of chilling, or make softwood cuttings in July. Kiwifruits also can be propagated by layering. To grow plants from seed, remove the seeds from a mature fruit and let them dry for two days. Refrigerate them in moist perlite at 40 degrees F for four months. Then plant the seeds no deeper than 1/8 inch in a sterile potting mix and cover the container to keep the humidity high. The soil should be moist but not wet. As soon as the plants germinate, uncover the container. After the seedlings are up, put a thin layer of clean sand on top of the medium. When plants have four true leaves, transplant them to individual pots. At this time, use a low rate of liquid fertilizer. Transplant the seedlings to the site where they will grow when they are several inches tall.

Site Selection and Soil Preparation
Kiwifruit can be grown in any garden soil provided the pH is between 5.5 and 7.0. The plants thrive in moist soils but do not tolerate poorly drained soils. They benefit from the incorporation of organic matter before planting. While most cultivars are hardy in areas up to Zone 4, they require about a 150-day frost free season. Vines perform best in full sun, but on such sites they tend to break dormancy too early in the spring, when late frosts can damage new growth. Planting them with a northern exposure delays early growth and minimizes this risk. Early fall frosts also can cause damage, so avoid planting in frost pockets. Plants usually regrow if damaged by a spring frost, but this will delay fruit development. The succulent growth is also susceptible to wind damage and hot, dry conditions. Protected moderate microclimates are best, as kiwifruit also do not like sudden changes in temperatures.

Planting
Plant kiwifruit 10 feet apart in mid-May, or after the danger of frost is past. Plant one male for every nine females. Plants require frequent watering from the time they are transplanted. It is important to select one or two new canes and train them to grow vertically. Do not allow them to twist around the support pole or wire.

Trellising
Kiwifruit require a trellis or other support structure. Set trellis posts 10 feet apart. Trellis wire should have 300 pounds of tension. Kiwifruit trellises are usually in the shape of a T, with the cross-arm about 7 feet off the ground and about seven wires across the 5-foot-long cross-arm. Train the main cane up the pole to the height of the cross-arm, then train arms along the center wire. Laterals grow from these arms and can be tied to the outside wires. (Fastening them will help keep them from breaking off, especially on windy sites.) The fruit hang down through the trellis wires, where they are easy to harvest.

Pruning and Mulching
Pruning is necessary during both the dormant season and the growing season. Two or three times during the summer, cut nonflowering laterals back to the outside wire on the trellis. Trim flowering shoots back to four to six leaves beyond the last flower. In the dormant season, remove canes that fruited during the previous season as well as dead, diseased, or tangled canes. Keep the best one-year-old lateral canes that haven’t fruited, spaced about a foot apart along the arms. Trim them back to about eight buds. Plants benefit from a thick layer of organic mulch, which helps control weeds, adds organic matter to the soil, and aids in moisture retention. Keep the trunks of young vines from cracking in cold temperatures by wrapping them with cloth or painting them with white latex paint.

Fertilization
Do not fertilize kiwifruit the year of planting. In early spring of the second year, spinkle 2 ounces of 10-10 10 around each plant. Increase this amount by 2 ounces each year until the plants are receiving 8 ounces, then do not exceed this amount.

Harvest
Kiwifruit will not reach maturity and flower until about their fifth year. The fruit matures in October, which is after the date of the first frost in many northern regions. For this reason it is difficult to harvest vine ripened fruit. Fruits will ripen in the refrigerator, but their storage life is much shorter than that of commercially available kiwifruit. Flavor is better, however, in the fuzzless hardy kiwifruit.

For more information, see Oregon State University’s web site on kiwifruit
production at http://berrygrape.orst.edu/fruitgrowing/berrycrops/
kiwifruit.htm.

Care of Flowering Potted Plants

African violet
Outstanding among small, flowering potted plants, African violets in a good location should flower without interruption for years (Figure 1). In addition to their free-blooming character, they are well adapted to home conditions, easy to propagate and available in a wide range of flower colors. Miniatures as well as more compact standard varieties are usable in limited space. Care of the new plant
1. Maintain night temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees F; day temperatures 10 degrees warmer. Do not expose to temperatures below 60 or above 80 degrees F.
2. Place in windows with bright light but no direct sunlight. Some midwinter sunlight is not harmful, but avoid it at other times of the year. If no suitable window space is available, plants grow well in fluorescent light. Place about 8 to 12 inches beneath cool white fluorescent tubes lit about 14 hours daily.
3. Water frequently enough to keep soil moist, but allow slight drying between waterings. They are easily killed by excess soil moisture. Wick watering is adaptable.
4. Humidity is important. In homes with low humidity, place on trays of gravel containing water. Home humidifiers can help. Reblooming African violets African violets rebloom easily in the home. If located properly and watered regularly, little need be done besides occasional fertilization. Use either special African violet fertilizers or a houseplant fertilizer high in phosphorus. A very dilute fertilizer solution at each watering keeps growth constant and eliminates any chances of over fertilization. Pale green leaf color may indicate too much sunlight or low fertility. Do not use water softened by a system using salt in the process. African violets seldom need pots larger than 4 inches in diameter. The danger of overwatering and development of root and crown rots increases if pots are too big. Old plants sometimes develop long woody stems. The tips of these plants may be cut off and rooted to form new, more compact plants. However, plants developed from leaf cuttings are generally more vigorous and bloom more abundantly.

Amaryllis
Amaryllis produce large, showy flowers before most of the foliage develops. Large bulbs produce two stems of flowers; smaller bulbs usually have only one. Bulbs ready for bloom or plants with bloom stalks started are available in early winter. With proper care these bulbs bloom yearly. Care of the new plant
1. When in bloom but before foliage develops, display in any desirable location indoors. However, as foliage develops, move plants to a bright window. Direct sunlight can shorten the life of the flowers, but after flowering is completed, give plants a bright, southern exposure with plenty of winter and spring sunlight.
2. To keep bloom stalks from excessive stretching and to increase duration of bloom, keep plants in a cool room at night. When this is not possible, stakes may be necessary to keep the bloom stalk upright.
3. Soil must be kept constantly moist while blooming. Drying will reduce flower life and cause the flower stalk to bend.
Despite its short flowering period, spectacular flowers rebloom easily in future years. Care is most important during spring and summer. After bloom is completed, remove blooms and stalks promptly so no seeds form. Do not damage or cut off any leaves. Place plants in direct sunlight. If the pot is small and the bulb large, transplanting may be necessary. The pot should be at least 2 inches larger in diameter than the bulb. Standard potting mixtures are quite satisfactory. When repotting, avoid as much root damage as possible. Repot before flowering but not after fully developed leaves are actively growing. The completion of flowering is the last time to replant. Provide good soil drainage; never grow plants in pots without bottom drainage. Keep bulbs at temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees F. After danger of frost is past, potted bulbs may be moved outdoors. If garden space is available, sink pots to the rim. Position in sufficient sunlight where they can be easily watered. Move gradually into a sunny location to reduce or avoid leaf burn. Keep plants actively growing during the summer. As danger of frost approaches, lift out pots containing the bulbs and store in a cool room (about 45 to 50 degrees F at night). Withhold water until the foliage dies. Light is not necessary. Bulbs require a two to three month rest period before growth and flowering begin again. Flower buds should appear several weeks after moving plants to a warm temperature and watering is resumed. Bulbs that had four or more healthy leaves throughout the summer should be large enough to flower; those with less foliage may not flower. However, with proper care nonflowering bulbs can be redeveloped for blooming in future years.

Azalea
The popularity of potted azaleas has increased rapidly since they have become available throughout the year. Several types are used for forcing, but the care of all of them in the home is similar.
Care of the new plant
1. Although azaleas can tolerate normal room temperatures, they will last much longer in cool conditions. Place the plant in the coolest part of the house where temperatures remain from 60 to 65 degrees F.
2. Keep the plant in a well lighted location, but avoid full sun while in bloom. Sun directly on the flowers will fade them and decrease their life. After flowering is finished, the plant should be moved to a sunny window.
3. Never allow an azalea to dry out. Water the plant by submerging the pot in a bucket or pan of deep water. Remove it when bubbles stop rising. Allow excess water to drain out before returning the pot to the saucer. Never allow the plant to wilt.
4. Use a complete, soluble liquid fertilizer about once every two weeks if you plan to keep the plant after flowering is finished.
5. Keep faded flowers removed to prevent the development of disease problems and maintain a good appearance.
Reblooming azaleas
Reblooming azaleas in the home is not a simple matter. After flowering has finished, remove withered flowers and keep the plant in a cool, sunny location. Shift the plant to a larger pot if it appears to be potbound. Azaleas need shifting only once every few years. It is unlikely that a newly purchased plant will need immediate repotting. A good mixture for repotting can be made from three parts acid peat moss and one part soil. With careful fertilization and watering, azaleas can be grown in peat moss alone. Submerge the potted plants outdoors in May in a
semi-shaded, protected spot. Don’t neglect it during
the summer. It will need water and fertilization regularly. Watch for insect pests. If foliage becomes yellow or chlorotic, iron uptake may be limited. This can mean root loss from too much or too little water. It can also result from a pH that is too high (soil too alkaline), or it may actually be a lack of iron in the soil. Apply a chelated iron or iron sulphate to correct the situation. Ammonium sulphate fertilizer also helps to lower the pH and maintain the acidity of the soil. Apply about one half teaspoon each of iron sulphate and ammonium sulphate to one quart of water. Apply this to the plants about every two to three weeks. About every third fertilization use a complete houseplant fertilizer instead of the above combination. Before July 1, shape the plant by removing the tips of rapidly growing shoots. Keep the plant outdoors as long as possible in the fall. Protect it on the first cool or light frost nights, but bring it indoors when hard frost is likely. Place the plant in a sunny, cool room. It needs 40- to 50-degree temperatures from November 1 to January 1. Do not fertilize during this period and water only enough to keep the plant from wilting. Buds should develop and swell. In January, move to a sunny window in a room where temperatures are near 60 degrees F at night. In a few weeks flowering should begin. If temperatures are excessively high during this period buds often develop poorly and new shoot growth begins. In warmer areas of the state, some of the Kurume varieties may be planted outdoors. None of the Indica, or Belgian, hybrids are hardy here.

Calceolaria
The oval, balloonlike flowers of calceolaria make its common name, “pocketbook plant,” quite appropriate. It is usually available as a springflowering plant from about Valentine’s Day through Easter.
Care of the new plant
1. These plants thrive in cool temperatures. For the longest display, locate plant in a cool room or window where temperatures are near 50 to 55 degrees F at night.
2. Locate in bright light, but avoid direct sunlight, which may fade flowers and reduce their life span.
3. Keep plants well watered at all times with slight drying between waterings. Overwatering easily damages their fine root system.
Care after flowering
Calceolarias are annual plants grown from seeds. After flowering is completed, plants gradually decline and cannot be rebloomed successfully. Excessive heat or drying at any time makes them collapse quickly.

Chrysanthemum
Potted chrysanthemums are the most popular year-round flowering gift plant. They are available in a wide range of colors and forms. Although chrysanthemums normally flower in the fall, newly developed methods encourage flowering all seasons of the year. Potted mums last several weeks to a month when given proper care in the home. Care of the new plant
1. Place the plant in a window where it gets bright light but no direct sun.
2. Check each day to make sure that the soil is moist. Do not allow the plant to wilt, but do not keep the pot sitting in water.
3. Keep the plant at temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees F at night. Daytime temperatures may be 10 to 15 degrees higher.
Reblooming chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemum varieties used for flowering potted plants are not usually suitable for Missouri gardens. However, if there is a desire to keep the plant, it may be rebloomed with proper attention. Florists often pot several plants together. Separate these plants after flowering and repot them individually. Use a 5- to 6-inch pot. Keep these plants well watered and at temperatures close to 60 degrees F. When new shoots appear, move them to full sun and give plenty of water. In summer, sink the pots outside in a sunny area where they can be given good care. Apply a complete liquid fertilizer about every two weeks. Additional plants can be started by rooting cuttings from the new growth. To develop large, bushy plants, pinch out the tip of each new shoot when it becomes about 5 inches long. Remove only the soft shoot tips. Do not pinch the plants after August 15. Keep the plants outdoors as long as possible in fall. When light frost threatens, cover the plants or lift the pots and bring them indoors. They often can be returned outdoors during periods of mild fall weather. When cold, freezing temperatures persist, bring the plants indoors to stay. Place them in a sunny south window. Night temperatures around 60 degrees F are ideal. Day temperatures of 70 to 75 degrees F are best.
Chrysanthemums flower only in response to short days (long nights). Until the color shows in the buds, plants must be kept where they will not be exposed to any light at night from a light fixture. Even dim light for short periods can disrupt flowering. When the buds begin to open, light at night will no longer effect them. Do not expect plants forced at home to be as perfect as those grown in a greenhouse. Greenhouse conditions are difficult to provide in the normal home. Hardy garden mums also grow in pots. These are suitable for outdoor planting. Set them out in a sunny, well drained location in spring when the ground is warm. To keep these plants low and bushy, pinch out shoots when they are about 4 to 5 inches long. Discontinue pinching about mid-July.

Cineraria
Cineraria is a spectacular flowering plant for use on Easter and Mother’s Day. Masses of daisylike flowers in either red, pink, blue, violet or white rise above a nosegay of large leaves. Cinerarias are seed propagated and grown at cool temperatures.
Care of the new plant
1. Plants last longest if kept at night temperatures between 45 and 50 degrees F with daytime temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees F.
2. Constant soil moisture is critical for maintaining long life. They wilt quickly and can be seriously damaged if soil becomes dry. Water thoroughly to keep soil moisture constant but not too wet.
3. Plants need good light but not direct sunlight, where higher temperatures may reduce flower durability. The heat, resulting in rapid soil drying, may also cause foliage wilting.
Care after flowering
With good care, cinerarias should be attractive for several weeks. These plants are grown from seed and are best handled as an annual. Once flowering is completed, they naturally decline and should be discarded.

Cyclamen
Cyclamen is available from Christmas through the spring holidays (Figure 3). Leaves are heartshaped, often with attractive gray-green mottlings. Flower petals reflex back from the centers and are held on long stems above the foliage. Colors are pink, salmon, red and white.
Care of the new plant
1. Plants may flower for several months if kept at cool temperatures. Night temperatures close to 50 degrees F are best; however, a range from 50 to 60 degrees F is satisfactory. Day temperatures are less critical but should not run over 70 degrees F if possible. High temperatures may cause young flower buds to abort.
2. During the winter, place plants where they get bright sunlight. At other times, place in bright light with little or no direct sunlight.
3. Never allow plants to wilt. Water from the side of the pot, so water does not get into the center of the “bulb.” Keep soil moist with frequent watering, but do not allow water to stand in saucers beneath the pots.
Care after flowering
Cyclamen is a perennial plant and may rebloom a second season. After flowering, gradually withhold water until the foliage dies off. This begins the rest period. Do not water for six to eight weeks. By midsummer, begin watering gradually. Repot if the bulblike corm is fairly large in the pot. When repotting, keep about half of the “bulb” above the soil line. At this time, a lightly shaded, cool spot outdoors, or a cool, shaded window indoors provides the best location. As new leaves develop, resume normal watering and fertilization and move plants to a sunny location. Keep soil moist at all times, and feed with a houseplant fertilizer according to manufacturer’s directions. Move plants indoors before danger of frost. Plants treated in this way should rebloom by midwinter.
If young leaves become stunted or curled, a pest known as cyclamen mite may be present. Although insecticides may combat this problem, infected plants are best discarded before the pest can spread to other plants.

Easter lily
The Easter lily is a popular holiday plant that needs little special treatment. Well-tended plants should bloom successively for several weeks in the home.
Care of the new plant
1. Keep the plant moist, but be careful not to overwater. Check moisture daily and be sure the pot never stands in water. Root rots can be easily brought on by overwatering.
2. Place the plant in a bright location, but avoid full sun.
3. Keep the plant in a cool place and avoid drafts.
4. When a new flower opens, carefully remove the yellow anthers. This will prevent pollen from smudging the petals.
5. Cut off flowers as soon as they have collapsed.
Reblooming Easter lilies
Outdoors: When all blossoms have faded, reduce watering so that the plant will gradually dry off. Cut off the stem a few inches above the soil after the top dries. In May after danger of frost is past, plant the bulb in a protected place outdoors at a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Often the bulb will produce a few flowers again in late summer or early fall. Easter lilies are not normally hardy in the Midwest but may persist in the garden for several years if placed in a protected spot and covered with a mulch.
Indoors: The forcing procedures seriously weaken the lily bulb. It is not practical to repot them and bring them indoors to try forcing them the following winter.

Gardenia
The glossy, deep green foliage and fragrant, waxy white flowers of gardenia make it a beautiful plant, but not an easy plant for home culture. Although available at other times, they are primarily potted plants used for the spring holidays.
Care of the new plant
1. Plants prefer temperatures close to 60 degrees F at night and 70 to 75 degrees F during the day. Maintain fairly uniform temperatures within these ranges.
2. Maintain uniform soil moisture with good drainage. Fertilize with acid reaction fertilizers to keep soil slightly acid. If possible, use rain water, especially if tap water is “hard” or alkaline. Never use softened water because of its high sodium content.
3. Place in sunny south or west windows.
Reblooming gardenias
Unless located in a suitable environment, gardenias decline rapidly and should be discarded after flowering. Loss of flower buds is sometimes a problem with new plants. To help reduce bud drop, provide the best conditions possible. Misting over the plant while it becomes adjusted to a new location may help reduce bud drop. When repotting is necessary, use a slightly acid soil mix high in peat moss. Repot in late spring after flowering is completed. If moved outside for the summer, they prefer a slightly shaded location. Most benefit from the addition of iron sulphate at three to four week intervals. Use 1⁄2 teaspoon to each quart of water. Soil acidity should be near pH 6.0 or slightly less. In early summer or at the time they are placed outdoors, prune back plants that have become too large. Plants are subject to attack by common houseplant pests, including spider mites, scale and mealy bugs.

Gloxinia
Care of the gloxinia is similar to that of the African violet, a close relative. Its large trumpetshaped flowers rise above large, velvety leaves. Vivid colors include pink, red, white, blue and purple in solid colors as well as spotted or bordered with white. Gloxinias are most popular during the late winter and spring holidays.
Care of the new plant
1. Plants need warm nighttime temperatures (65 to 70 degrees F) along with fairly high humidity and good ventilation. Daytime temperatures should be about 10 degrees warmer. Placing plants on a tray of moist gravel or misting over new plants helps adjust them to home conditions.
2. Gloxinias need more light than African violets, so place them in a bright window just beyond the reach of direct sunlight. In late spring, direct sunlight may burning the foliage and reduce the life of the flowers. If stems begin to stretch, light is inadequate.
3. Keep soil uniformly moist. Plants can be damaged seriously if allowed to wilt. Small flower buds sometimes abort after plants are brought into the home. Either poor light, low humidity or excessive soil drying may lead to collapse of the young flower buds.
Care after flowering
Plants produce a fleshy tuber, which with proper care, may be rebloomed. After the plant has stopped flowering, gradually taper off watering until the leaves yellow and die. Place pot and tuber in a cool, dark location and stop watering. Give the tuber a rest period of eight to 10 weeks. As new growth appears, move the pot to a bright location and begin watering gradually. Tubers may be repotted at this time if necessary. For spring bloom, do not water the tubers until after Christmas. Then remove the tuber from the old soil and plant shallowly into a new potting mixture. Place the top of the tuber above the soil line. Use only one tuber per pot. For starting plants, pots 4 or 5 inches in diameter are adequate. As shoots enlarge and leaves fully expand, begin normal watering and light fertilization. Plants should begin flowering in about four months. Young plants may also be started from leaf or shoot cuttings. Techniques for starting plants from leaves are the same as for African violets.

Holiday cacti
Thanksgiving cactus, Christmas cactus and Easter cactus are three tropical cacti that naturally flower near each of these holidays. Recent development of vigorous new hybrids, which flower between Thanksgiving and Christmas and in different colors and shades, has increased their recent popularity. In general, holiday cacti bear the stem characteristics of the Thanksgiving cactus. The Thanksgiving cactus has stem segments with saw-toothed margins; the Christmas cactus has rounded margins. Easter cactus is more intermediate in shape but develops more small spines at the junctions of the stem joints.
Care of the new plant
1. Cacti prefer a relatively cool night temperature between 55 and 60 degrees F. Night temperatures above 70 degrees F inhibit flowering and cause drop of existing buds.
2. Place in some direct sunshine. Poor light promotes bud drop and poor growth after flowering. In summer, place plants in bright light but not direct sunlight.
3. Water thoroughly, but allow to become moderately dry between waterings. Excess moisture results in root rot, especially during flower bud development in the fall during slow vegetative growth.
Reblooming holiday cacti
For flowering in future years, keep plants in a sunny window and fertilize regularly but lightly. Plants are epiphytic, that is, they grow in decaying organic matter rather than soil. When repotting, use sphagnum moss or a very loose mixture of organic materials. They do not need extremely large pots. Keep in a bright window indoors during the summer, hang from branches of trees or set in other lightly shaded locations outdoors. About mid-September, flower buds should begin to develop. Night temperatures of 55 degrees F result in the development of flower buds. When cool night temperatures are not possible, induce flowering by giving plants short, preferably nine-hour days, from about mid-September to mid-October. Cover with a light-tight box every evening for 15 hours of complete darkness. Flowering occurs about 21⁄2 months later. Reduce watering and withhold fertilization during flower bud development and flowering stage. Plants are relatively disease- and pest-free. However, overwatering or poor drainage of the potting medium may cause root rot and result in collapse of roots. Plants root easily from stem segments. To start new plants, break off the healthy older branches and root the tops in fresh, clean sphagnum moss. Water sparingly until rooting occurs and new growth begins. Wilted segments, if not too badly damaged, will recover and become firm as new roots develop.

Hydrangea
The potted hydrangea is popular for Easter and Mother’s Day. With good care it should last several weeks in the home.
Care of the new plant
1. Water is the most important factor in caring for a potted hydrangea. The large foliage and flower clusters use large quantities of water. Never allow the plants to dry out. Check the soil several times a day. If you plan to be away for a day or two, cover the plant with a transparent plastic bag so that it will not lose water so fast. This should not be done frequently or it will weaken the plant and increase disease problems. Do not allow the pot to sit in a pan of water for long periods of time. If the plant wilts severely, submerge the soil and pot in a pan of deep water, and allow it to remain until the soil ball is thoroughly wetted. Drain and replace.
2. Bright light will help to keep the plant in good condition. Place it near a sunny window but not where it gets direct sun which will fade or burn the flowers.
3. Hydrangeas like cool temperatures. Move the plant to a cool room at night (50 to 60 degrees F).
Reblooming hydrangeas
Outdoors: In warmer areas of Missouri, the potted hydrangea can be planted outdoors in a protected spot after flowering has finished and the weather has warmed up. After mild winters the plant may flower, but after severe winters it will often be killed back and will not bloom. Never prune hydrangea in late summer or fall. At that time flower buds are set, and pruning will remove buds that would produce flowers next year. Mulch the tops with straw or Styrofoam covers to protect from being killed during the winter.
Indoors: To rebloom the hydrangea indoors, cut the shoots back after the plant has finished flowering so that two nodes or pairs of leaves are left on each shoot. Repot in a mixture of equal parts of soil and peat moss. If soil is very heavy, add coarse sand or perlite. Grow the plant in full sun or a south window. In May, move the plant outside and sink the pot where it gets full morning sun but light shade during the afternoon. Water regularly and fertilize with a complete liquid fertilizer about every two weeks. For extra large flower heads, allow only about three stems to develop. When removing extra shoots, take out those that grow toward the center of the plant. Lift the pot occasionally to keep root growth from moving outside the pot. To keep shoots from becoming too long, pinch back shoots during the summer. The last pinch should not be made any later than July. Keep the plant outdoors as long as possible in the fall, but bring it indoors before a hard freeze. Keep the leaves on until November 1 if possible. Then pick off all the leaves by hand or put the plant in total darkness until all leaves drop naturally. The leafless plant must then be kept at temperatures from 35 to 40 degrees F for about six weeks. Keep the plant dry during this period. After the cooling period, bring the plant to a sunny, cool room, with night temperatures of 55 to 60 degrees F. Water it well and fertilize about every two weeks. It should flower in about four months. Color: The color of hydrangea can be controlled to some extent. Flowers are blue if grown in acid soil and pink if the soil is near neutral. The color of white flowers cannot be changed by this method. For blue flowers, use a soil mix with liberal quantities of acid peat added. Water the plant three times at 10 day intervals in late summer with aluminum sulphate (seven teaspoons per quart of water). After the cool dormant treatment, again add the aluminum sulphate solution about four more times at 10-day intervals. When fertilizing, do not use fertilizers that contain phosphorous. To produce pink flowers, keep the soil more neutral (pH 6.5-7.0). If the soil is naturally acid, water with diluted lime water made with 2⁄3 teaspoon of hydrated lime in a quart of water. Use a complete fertilizer for regular fertilizations and add one teaspoon of superphosphate to each pot. If leaves turn yellow (chlorotic) due to this treatment, use chelated iron or iron sulphate to correct the condition. Use 3⁄4 teaspoon of iron sulphate per quart of water.

Kalanchoe
Compact varieties of kalanchoes in a greater range of flower colors have been developed recently. As a Christmas plant, the red-flowered types have been popular, but pink, orange and yellow varieties are available for other times of the year. The kalanchoe has thick, waxy leaves. Flowers are small, fourpetaled, in abundant clusters held well above the leaves.
Care of the new plant
1. Plants prefer a night temperature from 60 to 65 degrees F. As with most houseplants, day temperature should be about 10 degrees higher.
2. Locate the plant in a sunny south or west exposure during the winter. In the summer any bright location with a few hours of direct sunlight will be satisfactory.
3. These plants can be damaged by overwatering. Allow soil to dry slightly between waterings. Fertilize with a common houseplant fertilizer at about monthly intervals.
Care after flowering
With good care, kalanchoes may be rebloomed for another season. After flowering, shift the plant to a slightly larger pot. Use a well-drained, general-purpose potting soil. Cut back tall growth and old flower stems. Keep well watered in a sunny, warm window. Indoors, keep the plants in a sunny location, but after danger of frost move them outdoors for the summer. Gradually adjust them to outdoor conditions, so tender leaves will not burn. Keep in a bright, lightly shaded spot. New plants may also be started from cuttings taken in the spring or early summer. Kalanchoes, like poinsettias, require short day lengths for flower bud development. Natural day lengths between October 1 and March 1 allow flower buds to form. During this time, keep the plant in a room where lights are not turned on during the natural dark hours. About six weeks of natural winter day lengths are required for flower buds to appear. After the flower buds are large enough to be seen above the foliage, day length is no longer critical. At this time, place plants in any location regardless of night lighting. Plants exposed to natural short day lengths in early October should begin flowering by January.

Poinsettia
The red flowering poinsettia is by far the most popular flowering potted plant for the Christmas season. White, pink and variegated types are also available. Many new, long-lasting varieties of poinsettias are now available. If properly cared for they may last a month or more after Christmas.
Care of the new plant
1. Poinsettias use a lot of water. Check daily. Make sure soil remains moist, but do not allow water to remain beneath the pot in the saucer or wrapping. Too much water will cause the roots to rot, and the plant will deteriorate.
2. Keep the plant out of drafts. Excessively hot, dry air from heating ducts will reduce the life of the plant. Also avoid cold drafts. Poinsettias are semitropical and cannot tolerate cold temperatures or rapid temperature changes.
3. Keep the plant where temperatures remain above 60 degrees F. Temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees F are ideal. It is not necessary to move poinsettias into a cool room at night.
4. Place the plant in good light but not direct sun.
5. Do not allow the plant to wilt. Poinsettias are closely related to many desert plants. Their first response to dry conditions is to drop their leaves in order to cut down water loss.
Reblooming poinsettias
Poinsettias are perhaps the most difficult flowering potted plants to rebloom in the home. Unless there is a special interest to try the technique, discard the plant after flowering. After blooming, gradually withhold water. The leaves will then yellow and fall. Store the dried-off plant in a cool place with temperatures 50 to 60 degrees F until spring. Water only enough to keep the roots from drying out. In spring, place the plant in a warm room and prune the stems back to about 6 inches. If there is more than one plant in the pot, divide and repot them at this time. For repotting, use a well-drained potting medium. Houseplant potting media available at garden shops are satisfactory. Or use one part garden soil, one part peat moss or leaf mold and one part sand or perlite. After repotting, place the plants in a bright, sunny south window until frost danger is past. Sink the pot outdoors where it gets some wind protection but where it gets sun most of the day. Light shade in the hottest part of the summer afternoon is desirable. Lift the pot occasionally to keep roots from growing into the surrounding soil. As new shoots develop, cut them back to allow two nodes or pairs of leaves to remain. Do not pinch back shoots after mid-August. Plants may be started from cuttings, but rooting is fairly difficult under home conditions. Keep the plant in good growing condition by watering and feeding regularly during the summer. Add a complete liquid fertilizer about once every two weeks. Watch carefully for insect or disease problems and control immediately. Discard diseased plants. Before the weather becomes cool in fall, bring the plant indoors and place it at a bright, sunny south window. Night temperatures for flower development should be between 60 and 62 degrees F. At higher temperatures flower development will be poor. Day temperatures may be 70 to 75 degrees F. The poinsettia is a short day (long night) plant. Make sure that it receives no additional light atnight while flowers are forming. This critical period begins about October 1 and continues until colored bracts and flower buds are visible. Even short periods of dim light can prevent flowering. If the plant is kept in a lighted room, cover it every night at dusk with a light-tight bag or cover. Remove the cover at about 8 a.m. each morning. If these procedures are followed carefully, the plants should flower by midwinter.

Potted bulbs
Spring flowering bulbs often forced into bloom in pots are tulip, hyacinth, narcissus (daffodil), grape hyacinth and crocus. For maximum enjoyment, these plants are best purchased in the bud or early stages of bloom.
Care of the new plant
1. Place the plants in a cool spot where temperatures at night are about 60 degrees F.
2. Do not place them in a sunny location. The warm temperatures in sunshine will speed flower
development and shorten the life of the flowers.
3. Keep the plants moist but not standing in water. Additional fertilization will not be necessary.
Reblooming potted bulbs
Do not try to rebloom indoors bulbs that have been forced. They can, however, be moved into the garden and will often flower the next spring. Discard any bulbs that have been forced in water such as hyacinths or paperwhite narcissus. When the bulbs have finished flowering indoors, move the plant to a sunny location. Keep it wet enough that leaves are able to mature and dry gradually. When the tops have died, remove the dry foliage and soil from around the bulbs. Store them in a dry place until fall, then plant them outdoors.

Author: David H. Trinklein and Ray R. Rothenberger

Backyard Composting - Recycling a Natural Product

To protect the äina, many people practice the three Rs of conservation. They recycle aluminum cans, paper, and glass. They reuse paper as scratch pads and line garbage pails with plastic grocery bags. Some reduce their use of energy and materials through energy conservation and careful maintenance to make things last. Apply the three Rs to yard trimmings and leftover food, and you have composting—an economical way to reduce solid waste, reuse organic materials, and recycle nutrients as a soil conditioner. Composting is about being good caretakers of our environment.

It’s in the bag
In order to estimate how much you threw out last week, gather one day’s garbage from your household. Weigh on a bathroom scale or estimate by comparing to a known weight, like a 20-pound sack of rice. Multiply by seven, and you have the amount of garbage produced by your household each week. Look at what’s in your garbage. Any recyclable plastic or aluminum containers or old newspapers? Take these to be recycled. See any food stuff – banana peels, fuzzy leftovers, coffee grounds – or yard trimmings? These materials are easy to compost. When you remove the recyclables, 20 pounds of garbage is often reduced to as little as 5 pounds. Imitating nature Composting is a process by which organic materials (such as branches, leaves, and fruits) biologically decompose under controlled conditions. More simply, compost is the result of humans imitating nature’s disposal system. When vegetation dies or falls off trees in forests and fields, insects, worms, and bacteria eat it. They leave behind small loose particles called humus. Humus bindssoil particles together into larger aggregates, or grains, that allow water and air to enter the soil more easily. Humus also contains important nutrients in forms plants can easily use for healthy growth and reproduction. Mixed with soil, compost improves the soil’s tilth. That is, it makes the soil looser, or lighter, which makes water, oxygen, carbon dioxide, and minerals more available to plants. Compost improves root penetration and makes the soil easier to work. Compost conserves water by helping the soil retain it better. Because it is made from decomposed organic material from many sources, compost contains many of the nutrients plants require (although not always enough to sustain intense commercial production). Compost has even been known to reduce the incidence of certain soil-borne diseases that have devastating effects on plant health and productivity, perhaps because the beneficial soil microbes added in compost outcompete the pathogenic organisms.

How it works
A balance of five essential ingredients is the key to rapid, trouble-free composting. If you maintain a pile with the correct balances of moisture, air, and carbon and nitrogen contents of the raw materials, then decomposing organisms—insects, worms, bacteria, and fungi—will do the rest. Water is required by all living things, including decomposers. The compost pile should be moist, but not too wet. A bad odor may indicate that excess moisture is inhibiting decomposition. Oxygen is essential to most decomposers. Oxygen cannot circulate well if the pile is too tight, too big, or too wet. If the pile is soaked with water, most decomposers die and composting is taken over by a few “specialists” that can live without air. Anaerobic decomposition—detected by its swampy odor—is slow and inefficient. Carbon is abundant in most organic materials and is broken down by decomposers to create food-energy. However, other nutrients are needed for carbon to be readily eaten. Wood and paper are examples of materials that are high in carbon but may be deficient in other nutrients and thus slow to decompose. Nitrogen is required by decomposers in relatively large quantities. It is a major ingredient in protein, a basic building block of life. Without sufficient nitrogen in your compost pile to assist digestion of carbon-rich materials, decomposition goes very slowly. Green leaves and grass clippings are examples of nitrogen-rich materials. Decomposing organisms produce heat by their activity. This heat in turn energizes them, and the whole process goes faster. Heat also helps kill disease organisms and weed seeds. The speed of composting varies, but at some point the center of the pile should feel hot or very warm to the touch. More mass (a bigger heap), more water, more air, or more nitrogen may be needed to get the process going. A well managed pile can produce compost in about two or three months.

Getting started
A proper surface is important. Compost is easier to turn when piled on concrete or another hard surface, but worms and other beneficial organisms from the soil will have a harder time reaching the pile. Level ground is also a good surface. The dimensions of the pile, as a rule of thumb, should be at least 3 feet high by 3 ft wide by 3 ft long to maintain sufficient heat in its interior. If the pile is too large, air has trouble getting to the center. Maximum recommended size is 5 ft high by 5 ft wide, with no limit to the length. The appropriate location for a compost pile is a shady area protected from wind (to prevent it from drying out). Protect the pile from heavy rain by covering it with a plastic sheet, or make it under a roof. Build it where it can’t be flooded. Have a protected area to store finished compost if it isn’t going to be used immediately. Avoid mixing undecomposed materials with finished compost. Choose a composting method Set-ups for a compost pile range from simple to elaborate. Basic compost heap—Simply pile and mix the compost materials on the ground. Cover the pile when it rains to prevent it from getting too wet or losing nutrients to leaching. Turn the heap regularly (every week or two). Building the pile over a layer of scrap plastic pipes drilled with holes allows for air penetration from below and reduces the need for turning. Compost pit—Pits are ideal for composting materials consisting mostly of food scraps. Dig a hole in the ground, add the materials, mix with soil in the hole, and refill the hole with at least 8 inches of soil. Fallow areas of your garden are good places for compost pits. Holding units—Bins help to contain the compost heap, keep it out of sight, and can make it easier to turn. They can be made of concrete blocks, wire mesh, or wood (although wood may lead to termite problems). If the bin is a movable type, it can be lifted from the pile and placed next to it when it is time for turning; just shovel the heap back into the empty bin. Old garbage cans can be used as holding units if they have enough large holes to allow air to circulate and holes in the bottom to allow water to drain.
Turning units—Some commercial composting units feature rotating barrels that make mixing the pile easier and reduce the use of shovels or forks for turning. Another way to make turning easier is to build two or three adjacent holding units. The first is filled with the new pile. When the pile is turned, it is shifted into the next bin. By the third turning, the pile is usually on its last month of decomposition.

What to compost?
Organisms that decompose organic materials to form compost depend on a “diet” of carbon and nitrogen. Fresh, green materials are rich in nitrogen, and so are animal manures. Just as plants need nitrogen to grow, decomposers need nitrogen to fuel the decomposition process. Grass clippings are rich in nitrogen, and wood chips are a carbon source. The key to making a compost pile is to combine nitrogen-rich materials with carbon sources in the right proportions, with the right amount of moisture, and adequate aeration.

Building a compost pile
This simple recipe for making a compost pile should produce ready-to-use compost in a few months.

1. Accumulate enough materials for a pile at least 2 x 2 x 2 ft; or even better, to make a 3-ft cube.

2. Shred or chop the materials to 1–2 inches in size to expose more surface area for faster decomposition.

3. Start the pile with a 4–6 inch thick base of carbon source materials (dead leaves, wood chips, shredded paper, etc.). Moisten. Add a 2–3 inch layer of nitrogen rich materials. Food scraps may make up part of this layer. Continue to alternate and mix layers of nitrogenrich materials with carbon sources, adding water as needed. The pile should be about 3–4 ft high or, if in a bin, not more than 4–5 ft high. Close the bin or cover the pile with a plastic sheet.

4. Inoculate a new pile, if desired, by sprinkling a small amount of topsoil or compost between layers. Some composters believe this speeds the process by “seeding” the new pile with decomposing organisms.

5. Monitor moisture content; test by feeling a handful of compost and squeezing it as you would a sponge. It should feel moist without yielding more than a few drops of liquid. If the pile is too wet, turn it to allow air in and improve drainage. If the pile is too dry, water it and turn it.

6. Periodically check the temperature in the pile’s interior. A compost thermometer is helpful, but you can estimate the temperature by touch. It should peak between 120° and 160°F (hot to the touch). When the temperature begins to drop, turn the pile and rotate materials from the outer and top parts of the pile toward the base and middle; move the more composted middle part to the outer part of the pile. For easy turning, use a garden fork to shift the compost to a second bin; the mate-rial at the top will now be at the bottom. In the process, you are aerating the pile, and you can add water if the pile seems to be dry.

7. Continue to monitor the temperature in the pile. It should heat up again. After the temperature peaks, turn the pile once more. You may note that white molds decrease over time, insect populations will change, and beneficial worms become abundant as the compost matures.

8. The process is completed when the pile does not generate any more heat. When the pile is cool and the compost has aged for another four weeks, it should be finished. The pile should be much smaller than its original size, and the original materials should no longer be recognizable. The compost should be dark, loose (crumbly), and without any strong or unpleasant odor.

9. Use the compost to mix into the soil or to make compost tea to use for watering crops, seedlings, and starts. Spread compost on your lawn and under shrubs, flowering plants, vegetables, and trees.

Helpful hints
• Chop or shred leaves, twigs, and other materials to speed composting. Smaller pieces of organic material “cook” faster than larger pieces because more of the material surface is exposed.
• A compost pile needs the right mix of materials to decompose quickly. When building the pile, try to have at least one part nitrogen-rich materials for every two to three parts carbon sources. You may need to experiment with different materials and proportions to develop enough heat for rapid decomposition.
• If there is not enough nitrogen-rich material, sprinkle small amounts of commercial nitrogen fertilizer between layers. (Note: these fertilizers are concentrated; use sparingly.)
• Balance moisture and aeration to develop heat; too much of either results in a “cold,” inactive pile. The hotter the pile, the faster the composting process. Temperature of an actively composting pile normally range from 120 to 150°F. Higher temperatures (140–160°F) kill harmful pathogens, insects, and weed seeds. Avoid turning the pile too often, because the heat is lost whenever the pile is turned. Turn it immediately, however, if an odor develops; the smell should fade away.

Alternatives to composting
You can reuse organic materials in your yard in other ways. People practice “passive” composting when they pile up organic materials but don’t turn the pile. Without turning, the pile will be “cooler” and much slower to decompose. The materials break down eventually, and compost can be removed from the bottom of the pile. This method may not kill weed seeds and plant pathogens, and the pile may attract insect and animal pests. To fertilize your lawn, leave nitrogen-rich grass clippings in place after mowing. Mow “high”—clippings should be less than one-third of the grass blade—and mow so as to spread the clippings evenly across the lawn. Mulching is similar to composting but requires less effort. Chipped or shredded organic materials such as lawn clippings, leaves, pine needles, shrubs, and trees can be spread on the soil surface around your plants. Mulch controls weeds, keeps moisture in the soil, and reduces soil erosion.

Author: University of Hawaii at Manoa

Water Efficient Landscaping

Water is just one component of your landscape planning–but in the arid west, itʼs an extremely important component. Planning for water efficiencyin your landscape design not only helps the environment, it also helps you avoid unnecessary headaches and heartaches over foiled plantings and disappointing designs. More than half of the water consumed by an average household is used for landscaping. In the summer months water use can increase by 250%, the majority of which goes for outdoor watering. Xeriscaping, a practice based on designing an attractive, sustainable landscape that minimizes water use and sound horticultural principles, is one possible solution to this problem. Xeriscape is coined from the Greek word Xeros, which means dry. But unlike the dry unattractive landscape some people may picture when they hear the term, xeriscaped, landscapes can be both beautiful and water efficient. Xeriscaping is an excellent alternative to a “traditional” landscape, makes wise use of our water supply, and helps keep your water bills reasonable. Whether planning a new landscape or renovating an old one, following these principles will help you save water and achieve your gardening goals. Plan and design comprehensively. When making plans for your garden, think about how you use your yard. Do you entertain guests, need a place for children to play, want to block an ugly view? Once you have determined your needs, consider the view, the slope, sun exposure, placement of structures, existing vegetation, and the soils of the area. Create a plan deciding where things will be and when different areas will be done; Landscapes are often installed in phases.

Here is a brief list to help you avoid some common gardening pitfalls and make
the most of your water efficient garden:

1. Check sun/shade conditions. Sun patterns vary with time of day and year.
2. Evaluate soil and improve if necessary. Soil types can vary within a given site. An analysis based on random soil sampling can provide information for plant selection and soil amendments. If appropriate, natural soil amendments or compost can improve root development, water penetration, and retention. Remember to improve the soil before planting or installing an irrigation system.
3. Promote good drainage. Excess moisture in the root zone increases occurrence of disease and pest infestations and promotes root rot.
4. Follow proper planting techniques. When planting, space new plants based upon mature size and shape. Even drought-tolerant plants, when new, need a good consistent supply of water to get started. Once established in the soil, watering can be reduced.
5. Donʼt overwater! Use a soil probe or your finger to check for soil moisture below the surface. The soil in the root zone can be moist even when the surface appears dry.
6. Consider the relationship among plants based upon their mature sizes and shapes.
7. A garden or yard is personal, so select plants to display colors, foliage, and flowers that appeal to you. Foliage, bark, and flower contrast and seasonal change add beauty to your water efficient landscape.

Water Gardens: Aquatic Plants

Planting Methods
Water plants are typically planted in pockets, crates, or containers to contain the soil. Pockets can be created during construction and used for all water plants. Pockets around the pool edge can hold marginal plants. Pockets on the bottom of the pond can be used for water lilies and other deeper water plants. Plants eventually outgrow the pockets. Crates or containers are commonly used for most water garden plants and offer flexibility in plant arrangements. They also are easily replaced when plants outgrow them. Regular top soil (without organic matter) should be used. Crates with open slats and plastic pots with holes in the bottom should be lined with landscape fabric or untreated burlap. Plastic pots that do not have bottom holes also can be used.

Fertilizing Plants
Most aquatic plants are heavy feeders and need fertilizing when planted and during the growing season. Aquatic plant fertilizers are available in three forms.
• liquid—added directly to the water for floating plants
• tablets—added during growing season
• granular—added when potting plants

Water Garden Design Tips
• Notice the water features in the natural landscape and at public gardens. What design
ideas do you like? What plants do well in your area? What plants do well together?
• Include plants from all categories; proper plant selection is vital to the garden’s success.
• Follow planting directions to promote plant survival.

Water sustains life in the garden and often becomes the center of attraction when added to a yard or garden. Starting a water garden—even one as simple as a large container of water—also expands the gardener’s choice of possible plants to be enjoyed.

Plant Selection
Space is limited in most water gardens so each plant should have a purpose—to add color, to add height, or to help deter algae. Using a variety of plants adds visual interest, as well as improving the health of the water garden. Caution: If given the right conditions, most water plants can spread rapidly.

Floating Plants
Plants that float on the water’s surface survive without soil by extracting nutrients from the water. Because they act as natural filters to remove excess nitrogen from the water, they also help control algal growth. Some gardeners compare the use of floating plants in water gardens with the use of groundcovers or annuals around larger perennials or shrubs.
Examples include the following:
• Duckweed (Lemna)
• Fairy moss (Azolla)
• Water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes)
• Water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes)

Submerged Plants
Also called oxygenators, these plants grow under water. Submerged plants are usually sold as unrooted cuttings and take time to become established. They provide food and cover for fish and also help rid the pond of algae by absorbing excess nutrients in the water. This group of plants can free float on the water surface or be planted in pots that are sunk to the bottom of ponds. Do not be alarmed if fish feed on the plants; they can regrow quickly, so no serious harm is done. Examples include the following:
• Canadian pondweed (Elodea)
• Hornwort (Ceratophyllum)

Shallow Marginal Plants
Also known as bog plants, these plants can survive with up to 3 inches of water over the plant crown. Marginal or bog plants add color and height to any shape of water garden. They also help blend an inground pool into the surrounding yard. Depending on the water garden design, these plants can be planted in pots set on underwater shelves, or they can be planted directly in soil around a pond or stream. Examples include the following (all can be left in place over Iowa winters, except parrot’s feather, which should be moved below ice level):
• Arrowhead (Sagittaria spp.)
• Cattail (Typha spp.)
• Cardinal flower (Lobelia spp.)
• Marsh marigold (Caltha palustris)
• Parrot’s feather (Myriophyllum aquatica)
• Water iris (Iris laevigata)
• Water plantain (Alisma)
• Yellow flag (Iris pseudacorus)

Deep Water Plants
More than one gardener has added a water feature simply to enjoy the group of sun-loving plants that can survive with 4 to 10 or more inches of water over the plant’s crown. Waterlilies and lotus may be the best known of the group, but all provide contrast in the garden through floating leaves, upright spikes, and/or attention-grabbing flowers. Water lily and lotus leaves also provide shade for fish as well as shading out algae that would cloud the water. In a well established pool, 40 to 50 percent of the surface area should be covered with leaves. Follow plant instructions when planting any of these deep-water choices. Fountains inhibit water lily growth, so place these plants away from fountain sprays. Leaves and flowers are constantly replaced and should be removed when dead or dying to reduce the amount of organic matter that can feed algae. Examples include the following (all should be moved below ice level, except tropical and Victoria water lilies, which should be brought inside or discarded on the compost pile):
• Dwarf or miniature water lily (Nymphaea spp.)
• Golden club (Orontium aquaticum)
• Hardy water lily (Nymphaea spp.)
• Lotus (Nelumbo spp.)
• Tropical water lily (Nymphaea spp.)
• Victoria lily (Victoria spp.)
• Yellow pondlily (Nuphar lutea)